- Text Kinza Shenn
- 18th January 2017
It was Giorgio Armani who led the soft-tailoring movement that shaped fashion in the 1980s, after launching his label the year before. This season’s collection was a reinforcement of the signature laid-back suiting aesthetic that introduced us to deconstruction, before it became fashion’s buzz word.
Here, it was about the soft shoulder, that fluid carrot trouser – but with extra, thoughtful ideas on contemporary comfort. Cushioned fabrics like velvets, velours, mohairs, faux furs and cashmeres were the highlights of the season, fitting in well with the relaxed, bookishly bohemian look that’s been dominant across the FW17 Milan shows. Knitted scarves were built with sleeves and wrapped around the body like a hug. Indeed, most silhouettes were centred on imaginative layering, upon layering, upon layering.
Reaching nearly 100 looks, it was a prolific collection, offset with brighter, slightly more severe outfits for the intermittent female models. And with numerous glimpses of tech fabric and sportswear silhouettes punctuating the tailoring as the show progressed, we were reminded of the entire universe Armani has created, a world in a wardrobe.