Turn of the millennium dress was the spark of inspiration that surged through Kim Jones’ latest Fendi offering. But if you’ve come expecting the Y2K minis of KNWLS and Diesel, rethink. The Italian house’s SS23 offering was a fascinating exploration of functional utility and femininity; futurism not through bug-eyed glasses but utilitarian cuts and boxy silhouettes.

Karl Lagerfeld’s work for the house was another touchstone. “It’s about continuity,” said Jones. “I am interested in looking at things that Karl has done, and seeing how we can develop them – both visually and technically.” Having taken over the house in 1965, the 2000s saw Lagerfeld embrace codes of light minimalism, merging strength, athleticism and glamour in one fell swoop.

And so Jones began with his baggy mesh dresses, distant cousins of the basketball jersey, layered with fluffy coats and baggy trousers in a strict palette of earthy beige and greens both bold and minty. This devastating combo characterised the collection’s first half, cropping up in sheeny halters, fuzzy dresses and asymmetric skirts in silks that bristled with electricity. The designer’s tailored blazers also opted for such eye-catching fabric, nipped and flipped inside out with exposed pockets and linings in hues of overcast, stone grey, not a stitch or thread out of place.

Colour abounded throughout, in the sharp-yet-soft bursts of Jones’ steel blue slit-sleeved turtlenecks and skirts pocketed with the double F of the legendary Baguette clutch. Lengthy duster coats of the same hue beared their innards, slit at the waist, while tactile wrap gowns and jackets kept it together, bunching, folding and loosely knotting at the waist. The collections’ final flair came in coral cargo pants and slip dresses cut to extended racerback silhouettes. Who knew sportswear could be so ludicrously chic?