Fashion
  • Text Jake Hall
  • 20th September 2019

New dawn

In the months since former creative director Karl Lagerfeld passed away, Silvia Fendi has been slowly perfecting a new aesthetic blueprint for her family’s iconic house. Fittingly, an artificial sunset provided the backdrop for her SS20 collection, symbolising the dawn of a new era.

As always, nature became a key motif in the collection’s prints. Blown-up leaves in bright greens and oranges adorned bucket hats and skirt suits, whereas brighter, powder blue flowers were splashed across the ochre background of a lightweight raincoat. Comfort seemed key: trousers were loose and billowy, and a series of cosy coats – think bathrobe-style fleece and thigh-length shearling – were belted tightly at the waist, creating a more glamorous take on what were otherwise relaxed silhouettes. Mixing 70s cuts with autumnal, mustard tones, you could certainly imagine Margot Tenenbaum nodding in agreement with a Sweet Afton in hand.

Fendi’s take on sex appeal became clearer as the show progressed. Sheer chiffons and open-weave knits emerged as high-fashion, 70s-inspired takes on beach cover-ups, and a handful of draped, transparent looks came embellished with sequins for a subtly iridescent look. An emphasis on organic cottons and sustainably-sourced textiles rounded off Silvia’s future vision –  one which prioritises comfort without sacrificing glamour.