• Text Alex James Taylor
  • 23rd February 2018

Woman's world

The Fendi woman has always been about empowerment – what do you expect from a house founded by five sisters. So, what with the current wave of Sexual harassment and inequality revelations, this season the Fendi protagonist strode out with an extra stamp in her step.

She’s a woman with “more sway in society, one who can defy men’s rules and take over,” said Lagerfeld, and this attitude surged through the collection. It was there in the silhouettes – super tailored, assertive and structured – the fabrics – slick PVC, Prince of Wales check and glazed canvas that gave major sci-fi vibes – and the shoulders, oh the shoulders – square, boxy and oversized – if Joan Collins is up for a Dynasty reunion, her wardrobe is sorted.

Taking inspiration from ladies’ handkerchiefs, and Lagerfeld’s vast collection of vintage linens – so Lagerfeld – pleated silk dresses and scalloped blouses came with “butterfly lapels”, embroidered with intricate flowers, and paired with beaded fringe capes to create more structured looks.

The collection saw Fendi once again team up with Insta-collagist @hey_reilly, having previous collaborated for its FW18 men’s show. Known for his logo mashups, here, he merged the Fendi name with Fila’s, appropriating the Italian sportswear brand’s logo across bags and fur sweatshirts. After the show @hey_reilly shared his appreciation on Instagram: “I’m … just so happy that some of my work – that was made in the spirit of fun for lols likes and sharing – should end up in the real world being seen by Karl Lagerfeld let alone made part of the @fendi collection.”

As Adwoa Aboah walked out in the final look – a luxe, black velvet cape – she wore a defiant expression with the wardrobe to match.