• Text Jake Hall
  • 16th February 2020

Bold imprint

Few initiatives have yielded more innovative designers than Fashion East, the acclaimed mentorship scheme whose alumni list includes everyone from Martine Rose to Gareth Pugh. This season saw Lulu Kennedy celebrate 20 years at the helm. Incidentally, FW20 also marked the first ever co-ed showing – yet another indication that gendered runways could soon be a thing of the past.

This may be Nensi Dojaka’s first season showing at Fashion East, but already her aesthetic feels disarmingly consistent. It’s a textbook fusion of masculine tailoring and the floaty, delicate detailing of lingerie, but in these deconstructed dresses and intricately-threaded spaghetti-strap tops, they feel like a new proposition.

Dojaka’s colour palette is deliberately stripped back to shades of olive, brown and black, leaving the focus entirely on the complicated overlap of sheer and opaque fabrics. It’s this cut-and-paste aesthetic that sets Dojaka apart, establishing a conceptually promising blueprint for collections to come.