Fashion
  • Text Jake Hall
  • 16th February 2020

Utter romantic

Few initiatives have yielded more innovative designers than Fashion East, the acclaimed mentorship scheme whose alumni list includes everyone from Martine Rose to Gareth Pugh. This season saw Lulu Kennedy celebrate 20 years at the helm. Incidentally, FW20 also marked the first ever co-ed showing – yet another indication that gendered runways could soon be a thing of the past.

Romance has been on everyone’s mind this week, but for South Korea-born designer Goom Heo, it’s been a consistent source of inspiration. In this FW20 collection, it manifested in multiple visual references: swirls of jewel-toned chiffon fastened onto otherwise utilitarian shirts, flashes of hot pink and rose-red mesh.

But Heo’s experimental approach ensures these references never feel stale. Instead, they’re interspersed with delicately-pleated scarves and multicoloured cycling tops, whose patterns resemble fluoro renditions of static television screens. Romantic, but not cliché: it’s a difficult balance, but one which Heo manages to land.