Few initiatives have yielded more innovative designers than Fashion East, the acclaimed mentorship scheme whose alumni list includes everyone from Martine Rose to Gareth Pugh. This season saw Lulu Kennedy celebrate 20 years at the helm. Incidentally, FW20 also marked the first ever co-ed showing – yet another indication that gendered runways could soon be a thing of the past.

The rise of Romanian-born, London-based footwear designer Ancuta Sarca has been swift, even by fashion standards. Her spliced-up, trainer-heel hybrids have already been featured in recently-launched exhibition The Real Thing, cementing the credibility of her innovative, sustainability-focussed vision.

For FW20, Sarca staged a static presentation, allowing guests a closer look at her craftsmanship. Nike flyknit trainers were slashed and stitched onto pointy-toed, stiletto-heeled boots – a style which has fast become her signature – but there were new propositions too, like the ombré leather boots fitted with horse bit clasps.