Fashion
  • Text Lakeisha Goedluck
  • Photography Sara Cimino
  • 15th June 2019

Regeneration

When it comes to staging a show, setting has always been a key consideration for Ermenegildo Zegna’s artistic director Alessandro Sartori. In the past, collections have been sent down a snow-ridden runway and presented amongst a vermillion-coloured indoor forest. But for SS20, Sartori chose the industrial skeleton of the decommissioned Area Falck as his backdrop. 

This decision was, of course, not without intent. The region is due to be reopened as a hub for health and scientific purposes, and, so, it’s this idea of regeneration that underpinned his offering. “It is our duty as denizens of this world to live responsibly,” explained Sartori. “We do not need to create the new from scratch, but we can reuse and reinvent the existing.”

This concept of building upon foundations was evident across the collection, which aptly came with the hashtag #UseTheExisting. The designer ushered in a new form of tailoring, as he took traditional tropes and elevated them – leather jackets were refashioned as short-sleeved shirts, while bomber jackets were hybridised with half-zip tops. From a sustainable standpoint, flowing suits were entirely made from wool remnants, while wearable notebooks served as a nod to new-age sartorial pragmatism. Essentially, Sartori delivered up a form of refined dressing for the increasingly eco-conscious shopper.