• Text Vincent Levy
  • 29th January 2015

Big ideas

There was a lot going on at Emporio Armani FW15. In terms of narrative, there could easily be a connection between the shadowed woman that opened proceedings in EA7 skiwear, and a single swooping motif that was cast across several men’s chests. Then again a series of models in cocooning collars and theatrical eyeliner seemed to belong to a different story, reminiscent of something vaguely Lawrence of Arabia-esque. Fabric concepts were equally varied. From rough-cut cloth jersey to knitwear-backed Nappa leathers, they ranged from raw and unadorned to unusually plush.

It’s difficult to pick highlights when so much ground has been covered, but perhaps the most significant element of this collection, is the one that’s afforded Mr. Armani the platform for such enormous creative output. Now in his 80th year the designer still displays his keen fascination in the notion of re-inventing the two-piece suit. Here he offered a shorter and more fitted jacket with slimmer lapels, paired with trousers that gathered at the ankle with two pleats. These modifications re-enforced the always strapping quality of Armani’s casting – and bound together yet another classically strong show for the brand.