- Text Jake Hall
- 13th September 2019
As guests trickled into the cavernous Brooklyn warehouse that staged Eckhaus Latta’s SS20 show, a playlist of ambient dance music echoed throughout the room. Cryptic show notes offered little indication of what was to come, but when the synths stopped and model Chen Yuan walked out in a short, ruffled babydoll dress, it became clear that this season would mark a new direction.
The collection of light, breezy knitwear, oversized tailoring and simple, sequined tank dresses was uncharacteristic of the New York brand, with its well-documented aversion to frills. There were also distinct nods to the ‘free love’ era of the 60s and 70s; high-heeled, suede clogs rounded off most looks, and crochet trousers erupted at the knee into blown-out bell bottoms. Even the first white shirt of the collection – worn by Hari Nef, fast becoming a NYFW regular – was layered beneath a knitted tube top.
Show notes made brief reference to “seduction in seduction / having nothing to do with sex.” Although abstract, this does nod to the collection’s normcore sex appeal; open-weave, almost transparent knit dresses were a collection highlight, as were the mesh looks emblazoned with the static of a crackly television screen.