• Text Tempe Nakiska
  • Photography Harry Carr
  • 16th January 2014

Gang fusion

One of the most apparent visual themes running across the past week’s shows is the fusing of all manners of grey, vivid magenta and blue. But leave it to Dries Van Noten to give this idea all the magic it’s got.

The Belgian designer has become so playful in recent seasons his shows have become (if possible) even more of a thrill to behold. Yesterday’s was kicked off with a purple tie dyed motif that ran across slim pants and baggy shorts, worn with cropped and strap-detailed bombers in dove and charcoal grey.

The sportiness of these looks, heightened by sleek track pants and floor-length anoraks, was played down with injections of clever tailoring – a midnight blue fur neck-warmer here, a trim coat there. The real standout was the intelligent way in which he intertwined colour groups throughout the collection – plum, electric blue, pine lime and emerald – crafting a striking game of colour and silhouette. For it’s in this playful balance that this designer’s overflowing skill is really grounded.