- Text Dean Mayo Davies
- 24th June 2013
This season, Dolce & Gabbana contemplated myth. That’s a valuable commodity at a time when everything is so literal, and we see process behind all art through social media.
Myth goes hand-in-hand with allure. Mystery is sexy. Back in the 20th century it was Mark Rothko who said “Mute icons are the only kind of beauty we find acceptable today.” In 2013? If only!
Domenico and Stefano’s myth belonged to Sicily, drawing on Greek origins to illustrate Zeus and Apollo on their collection, as well as the coins of Catania, Syracuse, Taormina, Enna and Messina. Good tailoring often just looks like money but to go and print images of it on top is especially bold given the sensitivity of the subject in relation to this brand. It was antique money – and whilst not ancient, you were reminded of just how many decades this duo have been at the sharp end of Milan fashion. They’ve done much for their country, both financially and culturally, by the sheer virtue of existing.
Once again street casting Sicilians, this time as modern Ulysees, the largely white collection/all-black finale nevertheless had a sense of repentence/mourning about it, set to Morricone’s otherwise life-affirming score from (Nuovo) Cinema Paradiso. Accomplished as it may have been, you couldn’t help wish for an injection of D&G’s old-school carefree abandon – which the streaker at the end had more than a touch of. That is their true spirit. Ripped jeans and a Coca-Cola sweatshirt would do the job too.