- Text Lakeisha Goedluck
- 25th September 2018
A racecourse may seem like an obscure setting for a fashion show, but Maria Grazia Chiuri chose the Hippodrome de Longchamp to unveil her sixth collection for Dior, leaving her usual location at the Rodin Museum.
Envisioned by set designer and frequent Dior collaborator Alexandre de Betak, the pitch-black space was scattered with petals and the walls were decorated with quotes relative to dance – and that therein was the main focus of Chirui’s SS19 collection. “Dance and fashion define the body and, through discipline, teach us to own it,” read the show notes. Here, the designer looked towards the life’s work of contemporary performers such as Loïe Fuller, Isadora Duncan and Ruth Saint Denis to inform her SS19 vision.
The show began with a performance choreographed by acclaimed Israeli choreographer Sharon Eyal; as models traversed the racecourse-turned-catwalk, dancers twirled around them to the sound of dramatic instrumental music. The collection was a tale of two halves: sweeping smock-like black dresses and silhouettes made from layered fishnet felt punk and androgynous, while chiffon creations in soft sugarplum shades with full skirts were comparatively ethereal.
Florals were manipulated and tie-dyed to resemble camouflage prints and were fashioned into asymmetrical dresses, longline overcoats and structural two-pieces. Meanwhile, the house’s signature power suits were worn belted at the waist, and the iconic Dior saddle bag also featured, draped across ornate, flowing dresses. Chiuri’s offering was a delicate and effeminate display with a robust edge, which married the two disciplines of fashion and dance together with effortless style and grace.