• Text Daniel Challis
  • Photography Raffaele Cariou
  • 26th January 2015

The blacked out space at Dior Homme was complete with a huge 20ft curtain suspended centrally along the entire runway, lifting as the show began to reveal the Paris Scoring Orchestra seated single file. The near fifty looks emerged to the string-led music, a reimagining of a song by electronic sound smith Koudlam, rising and retreating in a wall of romance-tinted sound. In his notes Van Assche describes the metaphor the orchestra embodies, of creating a new “techno-sartorial” menswear combining the formality of classic dressing (the orchestra) with utilitarian technical freedom (Koudlam’s masterpiece). The image of the musicians – traditionally and formally dressed bar their bright white trainers – hammered it home.

Black tie tailoring exited stage left as sportier elements were built upon, lapels pinned with clusters of pressed flower badges – replicas of which had adorned invites – and suddenly the floral social media storm employed by the house in the hours leading up to the show made sense. It was about FW15’s Homme Fleur, a reference to Monsieur Dior’s fondness for living beauty (the Lily of the Valley his personal motif), reworked for the 21st century.

Rhythmic flashes of electric blue and yellow came from the soles of trainers spotlighting trims on cardigans and threads in tweed coats. We got denim, pinstripes, baseball caps with tuxedos, stretched out and simplified outerwear, a vivid Warholian floral print… Van Assche’s marathon future vision – a hybrid wardrobe with no interval or flat notes.