Fashion
  • Text Alex James Taylor
  • Photography Lucie Rox
  • 21st June 2016

Work it out

Leaving behind his FW16 NYC bike messengers, this season Diesel Black Gold designer Andreas Melbostad took his cue from workwear essentials via Irving Penn’s Small Trades photographic series.

From butchers to fishmongers through deep-sea divers, Penn’s pictorial catalog of working-class men and women documented markers of each individual’s occupation: their uniform and tools. Yesterday, upon a grey catwalk – a reinterpretation of Penn’s ‘visual nowhere’ neutral backdrops – the Diesel Black Gold SS17 man was an exercise in translating utilitarian workwear codes to a more casual setting.

Loosening the belt, Melbostad presented a slacker, more relaxed silhouette to his usual lean profile. Rendered as blue denim shirt-jackets, baggy parachute nylon pants and long-line jeans that had been crushed to create a paint-stained effect, this urbanite aesthetic came paired with kimono-esque cuts, referencing chef’s whites and offering a further dimension to the collection.

Creating classic casuals is what Melbostad does so well, here he presents a versatile wardrobe that’ll look just as great in Bermuda or B&Q.