- Photography Amy Gwatkin
- Text Louis Gabriel
- 12th June 2017
Craig Green’s penchant for multifunctional utility is never lost on his audience, and his SS18 offering was no exception. The much talked about Central Saint Martins graduate has been carving out a distinct aesthetic since his debut show in 2013, founded in heavily articulated re-workings of military and workwear silhouettes. But this season, things took a slightly more transcendental turn.
Green’s collections are consistently centred around the idea of a collective of nomads, bound together by a singular journey. This season, they found themselves deserted on the shores of a constructed paradise. Models wore obstructive sculptures off which clothes hung, a welcome throwback to Green’s graduate collection. Their inclusion was entirely considered, mostly by bookending the major sections of the collection. More sober tops made their way through the procession, fabricated in neoprene and lending their construction to something more classical, revealed by contrast top-stitching. Then came figure-hugging performance shirts, warped and knotted in Green’s signature style, and coupled with breezy trousers and denim jeans that sat relaxed on the hips.
All of this gave way to the higher place of the collection, with heavily layered outerwear and kaftans with entrancing graphic prints, like palm-trees on a horizon. The fringed and hooded looks gave a clerical vibe, the perfect addition to Green’s world of peeling articulation and entirely desirable contemporary menswear.