• Text Sara Semic
  • 18th September 2019


Having shown as part of the Fashion East platform in previous seasons, SS20 marked Charlotte Knowles’ first standalone show at London Fashion Week and represented the brand’s most assertive and biting take on modern femininity yet. Titled Venom, the collection was held in the BFC show space which, lit in blood red, was transformed into a fiery lair into which warrior-like models marched to the beat of a pounding, industrial soundtrack.

Since launching her eponymous label in 2017 along with partner Alexandre Arsenault, Knowles has steadily amassed a tribe of followers to join her vision of future femininity. And here was their tribal armour: cross-body tops, camouflage-print floral slip dresses and jagged, metal earrings shaped like pieces of shrapnel. This season was the brand’s first foray into accessories, with semi-pointed square-toe heels and angular handbags that resembled snake fangs with maximum bite.

There were more of the sensual staples the brand has become recognised for – bras and corsets cut out to reveal flashes of skin and slinky 90s slip dresses with toggle string straps that cling to the contours of the body – but with more of a sartorial sting. Standout looks included a sinuous beige tailored jacket and skirt hand-printed with a snake pattern, and a cropped shearling aviator jacket with nipped-in waist. As humankind continues to freefall, Charlotte Knowles is dressing her woman for the new world order.