• Text Jacob Mallinson Bird
  • 15th January 2014

Discerning pace

With well-gauged pace, Guillaume Henry set forward a powerful statement. Classic outerwear that opened the show was matched by innovative tailoring, while ankle-grazing trousers and short-cut lapels nodded at mod style.

This youthful ease was augmented by merging of peacoat with hoodie – these garments, alongside biker jackets and looser fitting trousers coupled with beanie hats, added a casual dimension.

The palette was distinctly monotone, focussing on black and grey. Against this background, the gradual introduction of navy and cream gave inordinate warmth, culminating with a luxuriantly rich red-hued brown-burgundy suit.

Graffiti print shirts, referencing the work of Brassaï, featured alongside the classic tailoring – an uncanny addition. This print also appeared on the skirts and shirts of womenswear pieces. More typical plaid was also used, but modernised as the collection progressed, on coats with leather sleeves.

A keen eye for detail saw buttons set in pairs down the front of crepe shirts and long overcoats. Similarly, fur collars had twin straps hanging from them.

Graffiti prints, twinned detailing, leathers and furs, rich colours, and a blending of different outerwear pieces paced gradually against their monotone surroundings added a sense of discerning, nuanced ingenuity.