• Text Vincent Levy
  • 3rd February 2015

Soldier of fortune

At Calvin Klein Collection Italo Zucchelli’s minimal Americana looked set for new horizons. After offering up the concept of transparency for SS15, through experimentations with underwear as outerwear in a palette of flesh tones, FW15 focused on a more protective feeling.

The already heroic impression exuded by the brands brawny silhouette, and trademark lantern jawed casting was amplified. In cut this meant a renewed focus on tailoring, whilst the collections palette revolved around steely and starry shades of grey, black and navy. Set off with snub-toed industrial looking lace-up boots, models resembled some elite and futuristic branch of the military.

In line with the brand’s forever youth-centric renown, other accessories including baseball caps, and what looked like a workbook in one models hand, gave the impression of a cadet rather than anything too fully-fledged. But this feeling was subtle enough to not distract from a range of grown-up and patently expensive wardrobe offerings. An unexpectedly convincing component of this was the use of leopard print throughout the collection. Through colour on colour application it more closely resembled residual water on metal surfaces.