• Text  Dean Mayo Davies
  • Photography  Harry Carr
  • 24th June 2013

Drawn out

If your show is at nine-thirty on a Sunday morning, which Bottega Veneta’s menswear consistently is, then the collection has to be worth getting up for. There were no such worries here.

Tomas Maier’s smart – in all senses of the word – collection of visual contradiction is great brain food after a kick-start coffee. This season the German showcased both a new silhouette (narrow slim trousers, sloped shoulders, generous sleeves) and a series of hybrids: a v-neck knit turned to the side reveals it’s actually a shirt gone veneer.

Handpainting was talked of on the press release. No romantic florals in acrylic arrived, instead tailor-like narrow white lines added dynamism and contrast to neat suiting. They outlined pockets and buttons before dipping into ink as painterly grids. The boys went from sketch to a finished picture as the show progressed.