Fashion
  • text Jake Hall
  • 10th June 2019

shades of masculinity

Intimacy has long been the focus of Bianca Saunders, a designer whose tender portrayals of black masculinity have earned her a loyal fashion following. For SS20, her research again consisted primarily of conversations with friends; in particular she took inspiration from Eldon Somers, an artist and DJ (he was on-hand to provide the soundtrack) whose off-kilter take on formalwear underpinned a collection of split-leg suits, ruched separates and oversized dress shirts.

The presentation was characteristically pared-back. Artfully-draped bedsheets were the only accompaniment to the collection, whose highlights included a knee-length, oxblood leather coat and a dark, denim pullover, finished with a stiff, wide collar and geometric stitching.

Invitation artwork came courtesy of Troy Richie, whose collages of vintage gay porn literally deconstruct the themes of race, masculinity and fetishisation. Bianca’s looks were similarly spliced and diced; 40-denier tights peeked from underneath split-leg suit trousers, adding a playful twist to a collection which continued her exploration of what masculinity looks like today.