• Text Tempe Nakiska
  • 18th January 2014

Jacket obsessive

Berluti designer Alessandro Sartori is a self-confessed jacket obsessive (read more about this in our recent interview: Berluti: The Man whose House Expanded). This much was apparent in yesterday’s show from the very first look, a three-piece wonder of rich terracotta suiting.

The house is, after all, founded upon the ideals of great tailoring. Every Berluti store presents an aura of an elite gentleman’s club, precise custom service at the heart of every customer experience. Even Sartori’s models were a mix of youthful and mature, as if reflecting the wisdom inherent in his own clientele.

More casual looks pertained to suede aviator jackets, roll-neck knits and gloves, and one coat bore a lapel so wide you could rest a glass of whiskey on it. A series of pure white looks stood out from an otherwise grounded palette, one contrasting with one of the crisp leather bags that dotted the collection. And of course the elegance was stepped up with the last few looks: dinner suiting for evening activities – post fittings.