• Text Lewis Firth
  • 25th January 2015

Artisanal

Evolving traditional tailoring practices are frequently executed by many.  Alessandro Sartori has explored this for FW15 with influences of sportswear details and fabrics to create a formal-leisure fusion. Jersey is used throughout, even in suit jackets, using construction expertise to uphold tailoring’s distinguishable sharpness. “The contrast between the sharpness of the silhouette, the comfort of the new-generation jersey and the lightness of the atelier’s construction represents the soul of the Berluti man,” explains Sartori.

Last season was soft-toned – beige, lilac and yellow – now it’s flipped: influenced by the colouring technique used by Venetian glassblowers to create Murano glass, hues packed a mineral punch. Sulphur yellow, amber brown, emerald green and cobalt blue were popped in at unmethodical intervals, accenting some of the black, grey and beige tones.

The new Alessio shoe was a key piece: taking the Oxford-style and giving it a light, midsole and outsole conventionally used in active footwear, further exemplifying this sports-influenced aesthetic. This was also particularly seen in the supernal tailcoats, bombers and parkas, which were boxier but more relaxed. All very small alterations this season to the fabric composition, cut and styling, but aspects nonetheless that reflect the artisanal nature of Sartori’s approach.