• Text Tempe Nakiska
  • Photography Harry Carr
  • 7th January 2014

Dipped in Ice

The genius of Astrid Andersen lies in her understanding of gender-based hypocrisies. This season drove home her obsession with the conflict between strength and sensitivity. This was also the focal point of Nicolas Winding Refn’s Only God Forgives, the filmic exploration of silence and white noise, brutality, violence and quiet resilience which inspired the collection.

Andersen’s man is in many ways flawless: soundtracking the show, Missy Elliott’s Hot Boyz made sure we didn’t forget that. The bodily perfection is always palpable with Andersen, but it’s the careful balance the Danish designer’s clothes shadow that makes these men relatable.

Tight silhouettes may be Andersen’s calling card but so are the looser forms that flowed down the runway yesterday. A one-shoulder leotard was paired with cropped brocade pants, worn with poker straight hair and heavy biker boots. Drop crotch pants accentuated midriff-flashing basketball tops overlaid with Kopenhagen Fur and faux fur mix outerwear. Puffer jackets gave way to fine Sophie Hallette lace peeking from underneath while fine chains were draped over loose forms, a result of Andersen’s jewellery debut in collaboration with Black Dakini.

Overwhelmingly, there was a chill in the air. The Astrid Andersen man had been dipped in all shades of icy blue and grey, a crystalline combination that hinted at the fragility of frozen water as subtly as it suggested tenderness always underlies strength. Bring it, brutes: we know your secret.