Fashion
  • Text Alice Simkins
  • Photography Nicky Zeng
  • 1st March 2019

Lady in red

Sébastien Meunier’s FW19 Ann Demeulemeester collection was presented in two halves: the first was a delicate opium dream of rich blossom and ruby-red hued chiffons soundtracked by reverberating sitar music, while the second nodded to dark romance with a muted colour palette set to brooding electronica. The label’s ethereal, vampish codes – centred on architectural silhouettes and gothic inflections – were dramatically enhanced by vivid tones which juxtaposed the stark white interior of the showspace, set in Théâtre National de Chaillot, one of the largest concert halls in Paris.

Here was Meunier providing us with an intensely sensual vision of femininity. The first look, a gathered candy-pink gown with a deep V-neck and maroon leather gloves, was followed by a ruby-tinged, bias-cut dress with chiffon overlay and matching insouciant veil. Obscuring the model’s eyes resulted in a bewitching mood which set the tone for the rest of the collection.

Lavish textures created an overwhelming sense of tactility: layers of scarlet-dyed feathers formed protective talismans, while opulent satin jacquards were offset by translucent georgettes. Tailoring was relaxed and undone with pieces defined by padded shoulders and loose silhouettes.

As models walked, bells sewn onto garments chimed the dawn of an exhilarating new season for the Ann Demeulemeester woman.