- Text Clementine Zawadzki
- 20th January 2018
A disused Parisian office space drenched in a dim red light set the tone for a collection drenched in drama, daring and dandy. That Lee McQueen defiant streak was ever-present, as was his signature elongated, elegant lines. Unruly in the use of bold jacquard prints and its play on proportions, creative director Sarah Burton has again designed a capsule that’s equal parts sophisticated as it is rebellious. Somewhat of a continuum from last year’s ode to Oscar Wilde, the FW18 line is befitting of a contemporary gent.
Romance was found in the detail of smoking jackets with the quilted lapels and beaded appliqué, overcoats adorned in blush designs and floral motifs, and a white mandarin collared shirt with exposed cutouts. This was also reflected in the use of burgundy and red to balance the more monochrome palette, and where an injection of colour didn’t accent a piece, a bit of bling certainly did. Streamlined silhouettes offered strong shoulders and a sleek finish, at times dressed down (albeit subtly) with trench coats tied around the waist, or by pairing sweatpants with blazers and silk tasseled scarves.
Leather was utilized in cropped jackets – sometimes exaggerated with exposed shearling – and patchwork trousers enhanced by zip features. The additional edge of layered necklaces and accented earrings complemented all ensembles, constructing a story between looks that are both together and undone.