Fashion
  • Text Lisa Walden
  • Photography Alin Kovacs
  • 12th June 2016

relevant roles

On the agenda for Agi & Sam this season was a playful exploration of what makes a modern man. Models marched out to Dolly Parton’s Jolene donning razor-cut trousers, acidic hues, headscarves, broaches and Underground Creepers in jet-black. Swathes of flowers adorned faces, t-shirts were emblazoned with portraits of Del Boy, and front-fly boiler suits and micro checks were the go.

Inspiration was derived from the designers’ own childhood experiences with household conventions and traditional gender roles within the family. They also drew from the radically innovative works of Norwegian artist Nikolai Astrup, and his ability to evoke the traditions and folklore of his homeland. According to the show notes, the design duo – who first met whilst interning under the wing of Alexander McQueen – wanted to ask questions like, “are these traditional rules and roles something of the past, or are they still present today?” and, “who and what is a modern man?” By peeling back such themes, the designers set about challenging dated conventions of masculinity and femininity.

The collection was also steeped with references to mid-70s and 90s sports teams (including whimsical patterns of gingham, pinstripe and windowpanes). Toying with culture’s expectation of gender, the show was an acute observation into social norms. And not without that playful Agi & Sam attitude.