- Text Undine Markus
- Photography Tomas Turpie
- 9th January 2018
Former Virgil Abloh’s mentee, Samuel Ross, continues to expand the A COLD WALL* universe that lives within a conceptual space bordered by contemporary design, urban culture and audio-visual impetus. The brand serves as a sartorial response to London street culture and the zeitgeist of Britain’s working class, drawing parallels between youth communities across the country and the way they relate to contemporary fashion.
The FW18 collection, titled National Gallery ROOM-1*, studied the many facets of the British establishment through an aestheticised and minimalist prism, using its signature monochromes – clean and oversized cuts, premium quality tailoring and a preference for functional fabrics. Under the microscope, Ross had placed the colour pairings and sensitive coding of palettes found within British establishments, such as formal art galleries in contrast to industrial sites, an environment that the set design at the British Fashion Council Showspace tried to replicate.
Mixing juxtaposing materials, boiled hand-threaded wools, cotton, plastics, and thermo-active nylons, through structured shapes with a futuristic touch, the construction of garments referenced relatable abstractions, silhouettes and shapes affiliated with construction and workwear – the interlacing thread between the institution and the worksite.