• Text Lewis Firth
  • Photography Alexandre Sallé de Chou
  • 26th June 2015

Conquering nature

Two white flags sat either side of the runway at the Galerie de Minéralogie, setting a mysterious and solemn tone before Philip Lim’s show began.

Conquering nature was the overriding concept of Lim’s FW15 collection, one drenched in signifiers ranging from mountaineering, space exploration and utilitarianism. This time took an opposing approach, stripped bare of all complications to something softer, but still executed with intricate, considered precision. Primarily through smaller details: knotted ties notching bag-straps; popper-clasp fastenings around necks, attached to hoods; and frayed-cotton motifs, sewn on in strips of three.

And take Lim’s tailoring: voluminous trousers (pressed sharply) were made in a super-crisp, pastel-blue cotton and khaki-green long coats, with some sleeves frayed at the hems. (Military influences dotted here and there, accomplished without interfering with the overriding, sensitive tone.) While black, translucent organza shorts and a hoody sat above crystal-white outfits, as if it was floating, exacting Lim’s fastidious air even further. It was a shift of tangency from his last collection, one of a singular vision of strength, to a more eclectic blend of delicacy.