• Text Lewis Firth
  • 23rd January 2015

Several days ago, NASA’s Hubble Telescope took a 1.5-billion pixel image of Andromeda; it was a snapshot that represented our insignificance in the vastness of the universe. Overcoming such a thing is an impractical and philosophical endeavor, thus shifting attention to other, conquerable forms of nature.

Take mountaineering, for example: just last week, Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgeson were the first to free-climb the El Capitan formation in the Yosemite National Park. A three-week long, grueling ascent. A metaphor of life – aspects that got Phillip Lim all pensive.

Carabiners were used as fastenings and belts on jumpsuits and suit jackets, while knotted rope detailed coats and was used across bombers, tees and vests. (A signifier of safety, or lack thereof.) It was a utilitarian aesthetic that dictated the entirety of the collection.

Black straps were present on armour-like harnesses and left to hang loosely over full outfits. While long coats had shortened sleeves and matelassé gilets were paired over these knotted tops to create a multiple-layered effect.

One of the key pieces, a pullover that presented Climb Jupiter and I DID IT slogans, seemed a reflection of our incessant determination to succeed in ventures deemed impossible. Paired ever so carefully with stone-coloured, tailored trousers and a white turtleneck top.

Lim’s approach to design this season followed similar, aspirational ideals by succeeding in creating covetable and commercial product from the most unlikely forms of equipment. A collection conquered.