Top image: John Varvatos FW14 backstage, photography Harry Carr

Menswear is changing. Traditional codes are being blasted off the radar, the language of streetwear is an unstoppable creative and commercial force and gender discussions are loosening tight-collared perspectives on the how the world thinks men should look when they walk out the door.

Parallel to this is is the strengthening of markets historically seen as the lesser versions of luxury production leaders like Italy and France. First it was the UK: in five years since the BFC’s introduction of London Collections: Men statistics show the industry has boomed, the place is touted the epicentre of future-thinking, innovative menswear and with continued back up it will only grow. Now it’s America’s turn.

This week we’ll witness the first dedicated men’s New York Fashion Week, a slew of both established and emerging NY designers taking to the catwalk over three days. It’s been coming awhile: more and more brands have in recent seasons been taking to NYFW women’s with their wares, both local and international brands alike. Bolstered by the global menswear market’s current incline stakeholders are stepping forward in a show of optimism for an industry surging with potential – from the Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA) and designers to buyers, and educators at ground level. What does it all mean? In light of this week’s kick off, we hit up the corners of the spectrum to find out.

Steven Kolb is Chief Executive Officer of the CFDA, the body responsible for instigating NYFW Men’s in a continuation of its support of the American fashion industry. With the milestone only days away now, Kolb took the time to tell us how it came about and lend his thoughts on the current menswear climate.

Tempe Nakiska: What were the key factors in the CFDA’s decision to stage NYFW men’s?
Steven Kolb: The American menswear industry recognised that our local talent wasn’t getting the attention it deserved and so they worked with CFDA to create New York Fashion Week: Men’s. It also made much sense from a business perspective. By creating standalone men’s shows that are aligned with the men’s market dates, the collections can step out from the shadow of women’s shows.

“The male consumer is much more aware of style… Streetwear is in some ways the new American sportswear.”

TN: Were you seeing a lot of pressure from inside the industry to provide a men’s specific platform, and did it come from designers – emerging or established or both – or buyers, other industry insiders…?
SK: It was not pressure but enthusiasm that fuelled the idea.  It was very much the editors and buyers as well as the designers, both emerging and established who supported NYFW: Men’s.

TN: How would you describe the state of the American menswear industry today?
SK: The American menswear industry is in a growth period.  The male consumer is much more aware of style and I think this very much comes from what he sees athletes and musicians wearing.  I also think streetwear continues to become more mainstream. In some ways, it’s the new American sportswear.

TN: Statistics show that growth in the menswear industry is outdoing even womenswear in the US, while the UK has seen massive increases in sales over the past five years. What key factors do you believe are pushing the market so?
SK: There is greater visibility through technology with more information and thus awareness out there.

“The democratisation of fashion at mass retail continues to put fashion, if not the idea of fashion, in reach of the consumer.”

TN: You’ve been at the CFDA since 2006. What’s the biggest change you have seen in your time pertaining to the American menswear industry and attitudes towards menswear as a viable fashion business route?
SK: Over the 10 years that I have been working at the CFDA, I’ve seen many menswear designers succeed and grow their business to global brands.  When you look at where Rag & Bone, which started as a menswear brand, is today, that kind of success story defines possibilities.  That can be said for many other American brands too.

TN: We’ve been seeing more and more international designers show at NYFW Women’s in recent seasons. Is New York becoming a more attractive place for international designers – and specifically menswear designers – to work from, why/why not?
SK: The American market is huge, and the best way to reach the American consumer is by showing in New York. As a home base, New York is very much a city where you can come and build something from an idea.  Given all the support the CFDA offers young talent, like the CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund, there is a lot of help.

TN: What are the main advantages of New York designers showing in their home city as opposed to reaching for other capital fashion cities?
SK: It is easier and most cost-effective to show in your own backyard, but there is more than that. The culture and streets of New York are of great inspiration to many designers and this is core to their DNA.  Showing at home reflects that.

TN: What would you say are the biggest challenges facing emerging designers based out of New York today?
SK: I think the challenges an emerging designer faces are the same anywhere. It comes down to having a point of view and a business.

Stay tuned to HERO for full SS16 fashion week coverage. NYFW Men’s, which runs from 13th to 15th July.