Second hand severe

SS24 preview: Stefan Cooke dare you to feel nothing
By Barry Pierce | Fashion | 12 September 2023

In just a handful of years, Stefan Cooke has managed to create a consistent and recognisable style that other houses have taken decades to hone. The lovechild of Stefan Cooke and his partner Jake Burt, a new Stefan Cooke collection is a LFW staple, with its innovative craft and tongue-in-cheek wit. In anticipation of their SS24 runway show, Stefan Cooke have given us a sneak peak at their forthcoming collection – your clues are: an image of foam hands (like the ones you see at US sports games) holiday wardrobes, a track by The The and the collection title, Away.

Last season saw you look towards America, where are you pulling inspiration from this season?
“Our references this season are from all over. We began with no real theme. I think this collection is born out of us not justifying our references with linear ideas but exploring lots of different processes. The collection is called Away, which for us means lots of different things, ‘going away’ and the idea of techniques and fabrications around holidays, sun bleaching, felting, tedious time-wasting processes. But also in terms of being reductive about the garments and taking things “away.””

Is there a song or film reference you want to reveal?
Giant by The The.

Can you give us any specifics in terms of garments/materials/silhouette?
“We explored different fabrications this season. We were very interested in the nature of fabrics ageing as a process, as well as the repetitiveness of studding techniques. Hardcore craft refined to severity on neo-traditional menswear.”

What emotions do you want people to feel at the show?
“Nothing, they should feel nothing.”

Can you sum up this season’s collection in three words?
“Second hand severe.”

Stefan Cooke’s SS24 runway show will take place on Friday 15th September – stay tuned.


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