roses are red

Uncovering the secrets behind Alexander McQueen’s floral obsession
By Finn Blythe | Fashion | 19 January 2020

A new exhibition at Alexander McQueen‘s Old Bond Street store celebrates the brand’s longstanding relationship with flowers, paying tribute to the seeds first planted by Lee McQueen that have continued to flourish under the watch of Sarah Burton.

GALLERY

The two centrepieces of the exhibition – entitled Roses – are two looks created over a decade apart that bookend McQueen’s signature use of natural references and floral symbolism. The swirling Red Rose dress, designed by Burton as the closing look of the FW19 show, and the legendary fresh-flower dress imagined by McQueen for the Sarabande show finale in SS07. Both are archetype designs of the brand whose meticulous construction have been revealed as part of Burton’s vision for greater industry transparency and collaborative education.

These magnificent creations are accompanied by practical insights into their design and production process. The exhibition features various samples of work-in-progress, background research and moodboards, all arranged around a studio cutting table that will double up as a space for masterclasses and discussions with students.

Looking at the Red Rose dress, it seems scarcely believable. The voluminous folds that mirror that of its namesake, the extraordinary neckline that swaddles the wearer’s chin in layers of tulle – the processes of these works of art are revealed in a video by the magician herself, head of atelier Judy Halil, who makes the dress with a step-by-step demonstration.

Elsewhere, a video features Sarah Burton explaining the development of her flower iconography catalogue. Each design corresponds to exact memories behind each collection: team field-trips to gardens, historic houses, and museums, the crucial hands-on parts played by the fabric and embroidery teams, right down to the collaboration of students on placement.

The exhibition comes as the latest part of an initiative launched by Burton this time last year, which saw the head designer open a specially dedicated floor to staging educational events and practical workshops for students. The inaugural installation, Unlocking Stories, formed the basis of five key pieces in McQueen’s SS19 collection, a collaborative approach that last year was followed up with a dress made in response to the drawings of Central Saint Martins students.

Launching alongside Roses, an educational series with a masterclass on patternmaking and couture techniques was given to students by Sarah Burton and Head of Atelier Judy Halil, and will continue throughout 2020.

Roses can be found on the second floor of the store and opens to the public on 30th November.


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