Pearls aligned in celestial order

The Jewellers: Alan Crocetti
By Thomas Davis | Fashion | 16 December 2013
Above:

Satellite ring, Freshwater pearls on silver, Alan Crocetti 2013

Jewellery becomes as emblematic of its wearer as any physical gesture or signature fragrance – it’s a punctuation point that goes beyond whatever else you throw on yourself that day. There’s the idea of permanence, even if there is equally the option to treat it as fashion and change it like t-shirts.

Men’s jewellery is truly having a moment, so we’re dedicating a series to our favourite creators. Alan Crocetti is the new kid on the block, debuting his first men’s collection alongside Bobby Abley’s SS14 show at London Collections: Men back in June. Check out his passion for impactful simplicity, renewed takes on masculinity and the ever inspirational Diana Vreeland below.

Thomas Davis: Can you describe in your own words the aesthetic of your jewellery?
Alan Crocetti: Minimal and bold; I like impactful simplicity and a strong sense of character.

TD: Have you always been interested in jewellery design? At which point in your life did you decide to pursue this as a creative career?
AC: I’ve always been interested in all types and aspects of design. Jewellery has always turned me on. I started off as a womenswear designer but the accessories always seemed to somehow pull more focus. Everything has  happened so fast this year that I almost don’t know at which point this creative process began/how it happened – but I’m glad I’ve done it!

TD: Do you design a piece with an intended way of wearing it already in mind? How do you style your own jewellery/what do you like to see it worn with?
AC: Rings on fingers, earpieces on ears. Other than that I don’t really have a presupposed idea for wearing my jewellery. I figure it doesn’t matter whether you’re naked or dressed, they will fit their intended purpose either way.

TD: You produced the jewellery for Bobby Abley’s recent catwalk debut at the MAN show in London. How did this collaboration come about?
AC: I had started this pearl obsession and he was working on his prince charming/knight sort of guy as a reference for his collection, he saw my work and trusted me enough to have the earpieces in his show and then took them to the London showrooms in Paris. After that I received press and support from buyers as far as Tokyo and LA. I was really flattered and I’m forever grateful.

TD: If you were to pick signatures pieces from your collection, which best represent you as a designer, what would they be?
AC: The pearl earpieces were the pieces that helped me even get to this interview and they represent me a hell of a lot. It’s unusual menswear, unexpected and combines both modern and classic. I would like to think that all my pieces are signature pieces though. I don’t really design “gap fillers”.

Alan Crocetti HERO Magazine feature Jewellery 2013 Portrait 2

TD: Do you intend to collaborate with other designers again in the future?
AC: It’s fun stepping into someone else’s world and sharing my visions, so, yes I do intend to.

TD: How easy is it for you, being relatively new to the Jewellery design process – to have creations manufactured?
AC: Is it easy to have them made in London? I design myself and produce the prototypes alongside an old jeweller I know. London is quite expensive for bigger production but I’m taking things one step at a time.

TD: Who would be your ideal, living or dead, to wear your jewellery?
AC: Diana Vreeland. She was also a pearl lover and my collection is in parts inspired by her. I bet she would’ve loved to see men wearing them around town and I’m excited to see that happen actually. But I guess in all honesty I’d be happy with pretty much anyone who bought them, no demagogy, it’s the best form of realisation I suppose.

TD: What pieces do you wear day-to-day – and when do you take them off? 
AC: I wear my pearls, and a big diamond ring I designed for myself! (It’s actually zirconia). I like guys with blingy jewellery – pearls, diamonds glittering stuff – who defy masculinity or rather are defining a new interpretation of masculinity.

Check out the other creatives in our series The Jewellers: Dominic Jones, Eddie Borgo, Jordan Askill and Nikolai Rose

 

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