Jewellery becomes as emblematic of  its wearer as any physical gesture or signature fragrance – it’s a punctuation point that goes beyond whatever else you throw on yourself that day. There’s the idea of permanence, even if there is equally the option to treat it as fashion and change it like t-shirts.

Men’s jewellery is truly having a moment, so we’re dedicating a series to our favourite creators. Eddie Borgo has snared a cult following for the hard-edged glamour of his women’s pieces and now we can get a piece of the action too, as the New Yorker unveils his first menswear collection for SS14. Listen up.

Thomas Davis: Can you describe in your own words the aesthetic of your jewellery?
Eddie Borgo: Functionality, simplicity, quality and form. The collection is always derived from the classicism of geometric shapes and the timelessness of heritage hardware.

TD: Have you always been interested in jewellery design? At what point in your life did you decide to pursue it as a career?
EB: I was initially drawn to adornment and studied the history of adornment in school. It fascinated me that you could use jewellery to determine cultural, social or religious status of the wearer.

I began to assist different stylists in New York and started making jewellery as one-off pieces for editorial photo shoots. I then started to be asked to do runway jewellery. In 2009, I decided to create my first collection of ten pieces.

TD: If you were to pick signature pieces from past or recent collections, which best represent you as a designer, which would they be?
EB: Our FW12 collection I remember for the complicated engineering and construction in the pieces. Resort 2013, for the ionising technique that we used to add bright colour to the metal. Recently, for SS14, we worked with druzy for the first time. Each collection marks a great learning curve for all of us at my studio. There are signature pieces and ideas in every collection.

TD: Do you design a piece with an intended way of wearing it already in mind? How do you style your own jewellery and what do you like to see it worn with?
EB: I like to see jewellery being worn in a way that feels personal. Jewellery is such a personal item, it should feel like you belong in it.

TD: Who, living or not, would you most like to see in your jewellery?
EB: Mick Jagger, Robert Mapplethorpe, David Bowie, Lou Reed.

TD: SS14 sees your first men’s jewellery collection. Why now? And do you approach men’s and women’s pieces differently?
EB: I am constantly looking at male icons in my research: Mick Jagger, Robert Mapplethorpe, David Bowie, Keith Richards, and Iggy Pop; so, the men’s collection was an extension of that research.

The men’s jewellery market is changing. There were a few brands that had cornered the men’s jewellery market, and the shapes and sizing were no longer looking modern. Men are looking for classic everyday pieces that are well-designed: a simple pendant in a new shape, a modern signet ring, or a classic ID bracelet with an interesting closure. My men’s collection is a new interpretation of those steadfast ideas.

TD: You’re enthusiastic about collaborations whether that be for runway shows with other designers or for custom retail pieces. Do you have any exciting upcoming projects?
EB: We are working on a lot of different projects, mainly associated with moving the brand into more of an accessory-based company, rather than solely concentrating on jewellery.

TD: How does living in New York influence your work? Is there a particular scene or environment from which you draw regular reference?
EB: New York has a tempo and momentum that I find extremely intriguing. It is a place where so many different people, ideas and events converge.

The punk movement and everything surrounding it was one of the most significant NYC subcultures – it really encapsulated so much of the explosive creative energy and attitude that still exists here today.

TD: What pieces do you wear day-to-day – and when do you take them off?
EB: A vintage watch, any jewellery that was given to me. I rarely keep jewellery on – I am working with my hands constantly so I tend to take it off. I lose my jewellery often.

TD: Tell us something we wouldn’t expect of you…
EB: I am probably the least ‘cool’ person that I know. I am actually a very private person but [with the business] have had to learn how to be more open, engaging and social.

Check out the other creatives in our series The Jewellers: Dominic Jones, Alan Crocetti, Jordan Askill and Nikolai Rose